Category Archives: New Bedford, Mass.

Seashells

Walked to Fort Phoenix in Fairhaven yesterday.

Waves from Wednesday’s storm must have hit the beach at Fort Phoenix. Big rolls of seaweed, mixed with seashells and grains of sand, lay at the high tide mark. Most of the seaweed appeared to be Knotted Wrack (Ascophyllum nodosum), and true to its name its six-inch strands were knotted together, the bulbous ends impossibly tangled.

The seashells, as usual at Fort Phoenix, were thick between the low-tide and high-tide marks. The vast majority of the shells are always Common Slipper Snail (Crepidula fornicata), usually open and empty. But yesterday there were lots of live Common Slipper Snails clinging tightly to empty Northern Quahog shells (Mercenaria mercenaria).

Aside from the slipper shells and clamshells, the beach had the usual sprinkling of Common Jingle Shells (Anomia simplex) and Atlantic Bay Scallops (Argopecten irradians). I saw two Whelk shells, one which was a good seven inches long and was probably a Knobbed Whelk; the other I think is a Channeled Whelk. I found one Eastern Oyster shell (Crassostrea virginica), and one well-preserved shell of an Atlantic Horseshoe Crab (Limulus polyphemus). I did not find any of the delicate Ribbed Mussel shells (Geukensia demissa), although we found some there just last week.

I would estimate that there were twice as many gulls as usual at Fort Phoenix, many of them in the air: carrying shellfish in their bills, dropping shellfish until the shells cracked, harassing other gulls to steal a cracked shellfish away, or gliding along looking for more shellfish to pick up. The gulls use the summer parking lot, now empty of cars, as another rock on which to drop clams, cracking the hard shells open so they can eat the soft mollusc inside; although most of them still use the rocks at the edge of the sea.

I walked through the parking lot looking at the broken empty shells. Nearly all of them were clams, but I saw an occasional scallop, and one or two slipper shells. I watched as one Herring Gull dropped a clam; I heard it crack; the gull dipped into the broken shell with its bill, snatching out the soft inside, gobbling it down, all the while keeping a fierce lookout for nearby gulls who might steal its treasure.

Seal

As I was crossing the swing bridge on Rt. 6 on a walk across to Fairhaven this afternoon, something caught my eye in the water to the north of the bridge. It turned out to be a harbor seal lolling in the water right next to the pilings that protect the bridge when has swung open to shipping. We have seen seals near the hurricane barrier, but this seal was in the middle of the busy part of the harbor. I watched it for awhile in the binoculars.

It stuck its nose up into the air, looking as if it were snuffing in a huge breath, then ducked under water. I thought it was gone, and walked on; but it surfaced again and seemed to look right at me with its big dark eyes. I watched it come up and go down a few more times, until it went under with a splash of its tail, disappearing behind some pilings. I walked on, thinking: New Bedford is lucky to have large wild mammals in the heart of the city.

Moby-Dick marathon, finis

I managed to catch much of the last hour of the Moby-Dick marathon. I walked in at 12:08, Chapter 134, “The Chase — Second Day”; Carol came in just after me. They saved the best readers for last, including a repeat appearance by Peter Whittemore, the great-great-grandson of Herman Melville. By my estimate, just over a hundred people in the room to hear the end of the book. Carol heard almost all of that last hour; I had to duck out for a phone call about tomorrow’s memorial service.

This year, thirteen people stayed for the full 25 hours, including people from New Bedford, Westport, Nantucket, and Centerville, Massachusetts; Connecticut; Washington, D.C.; Maryland; and Nevada.

The marathon ended at 1:03 EST, with these last words:

And I only am escaped alone to tell thee. JOB

The Drama’s Done. Why then here does any one step forth? – Because one did survive the wreck.

It so chanced, that after the Parsee’s disappearance, I was he whom the Fates ordained to take the place of Ahab’s bowsman, when that bowsman assumed the vacant post; the same, who, when on the last day the three men were tossed from out the rocking boat, was dropped astern. So. floating on the margin of the ensuing scene, and in full sight of it, when the half-spent suction of the sunk ship reached me, I was then, but slowly, drawn towards the closing vortex. When I reached it, it had subsided to a creamy pool. Round and round, then, and ever contracting towards the button-like black bubble at the axis of that slowly wheeling circle, like another ixion I did revolve. till gaining that vital centre, the black bubble upward burst; and now, liberated by reason of its cunning spring, and owing to its great buoyancy, rising with great force, the coffin like-buoy shot lengthwise from the sea, fell over, and floated by my side. Buoyed up by that coffin, for almost one whole day and night, I floated on a soft and dirge-like main. The unharming sharks, they glided by as if with padlocks on their mouths; the savage sea-hawks sailed with sheathed beaks. On the second day, a sail drew near, nearer, and picked me up at last. It was the devious-cruising Rachel, that in her retracing search after her missing children, only found another orphan.

Finis

I see in my copy of Moby-Dick the following written in pencil, in my writing, after the word “Finis”: July 4, 1984; that date, I guess, when I finished reading the whole of the book for the first time. It would have been marvelous to hear the whole of Moby-Dick read aloud this time; maybe next year.

Moby-Dick links:

Online Moby-Dick, marred by occasional typos but easy to navigate and search.

Moby-Dick marathon Web page on the site of the New Bedford Whaling Museum.

Moby-Dick marathon, part 3

New Bedford Whaling Museum

8:30 a.m. I stop in for 20 minutes before heading up to the office. Carol is already sitting with our copy of Moby-Dick, nursing a cup of coffee. Quite a few more people at this hour: 1 reader, 15 spectators, 18 readers waiting, 5 volunteers, a number of people in the back; but my count is inaccurate, people are coming and going all the time; perhaps like me they are stopping in on their way to work.

I should mention that the volunteers all wear navy-blue caps with gold braid or “scrambled eggs” on the brim, and the words “Moby-Dick: The Marathon” emblazoned across the front in gold letters. This morning, the Timer is particularly intent on his duties, seated at the table in front of the two reader’s podiums, lightly tapping his text of Moby-Dick with a pencil as he follows along, checking the clock, checking whatever is written in the notebook open in front of him.

***

Today’s New Bedford Standard-Times, begins the story on the marathon thus:

NEW BEDFORD — The man with the black boots made his way loudly to the front of the chapel.

Those seated couldn’t help but turn in the pews to watch the man, wearing a long trench coat and wide-brimmed black hat, make his way forward.

“Who is that?” people whispered as Peter Whittemore, the great-great-grandson of Herman Melville, read Chapter 7 of “Moby-Dick” as part of the 10th annual 25-hour “Moby-Dick” marathon.

The marathon began at the whaling museum yesterday, but some 80 participants walked across the street to Seamen’s Bethel to read Chapter 7 — the chapter about the minister’s sermon to the whalers.

Mr. Whittemore, 55, was in the middle of reading when it became clear who the man in black was.

“Oh! He’s the minister!” people whispered, as the real-life Rev. Edward Dufresne, took the pulpit as “Father Mapple” and read his dialogue in character.

The Standard-Times also quotes volunteer Mimi Allen as asying, “We have about 20 people who stick around every year for the entire 25 hours.” (Given what I saw last night at 3 a.m., my guess is that this year there are less than 20.) The Standard-Times also reports that “everyone who stays the entire time will be awarded a Melville biography.”

***

10:05 a.m. I’m taking a break from writing a memorial service, and stop in for fifteen minutes. Carol has been there since 8:15; I manage to get a chair next to her. Still more people now: perhaps 20 spectators and 20 readers waiting to read, half a dozen volunteers, but it’s hard to get a good count as people are moving about, coming in, going out. Though there isn’t much room on the spectator side of the room, no one will sit in the front row of chairs. We are sitting right behind some of the all-nighters; their faces are pallid, their eyes a little puffy.

A young woman reads:

Chapter one-twenty-two. Midnight aloft — Thunder and Lightning. The Main-top-sail yard. – Tashtego passing new lashings around it. “Um, um, um. Stop that thunder! Plenty too much thunder up here. What’s the use of thunder? Um, um, um. We don’t want thunder; we want rum; give us a glass of rum. Um, um, um!”

Her voice doesn’t quite manage to make me believe it is Tashtego speaking, but she doesn’t need to. The book is speaking through her, as it speaks through each of the readers. The concept of a Moby-Dick marathon sounds a little silly, I suppose, and I find I cannot convey the power of hearing the book read in this way, all at one time, by multiple readers in their individual voices. Even though Carol and I have caught just pieces of the complete reading, we have known it is going on this whole time. We have lost something in our culture, now that we no longer read aloud to each other; audio books, while fine in their own way, are too disembodied. Sitting there in the flesh, listening to a real voice, makes the book come alive in a way that transcends merely reading it by yourself, or listening to a recording of it.

Moby-Dick marathon, part 2

New Bedford Whaling Museum

2:55 a.m. Chapter 78. 1 man reading, 4 spectators wide awake and sitting upright, 4 spectators asleep and lying down (one snoring too audibly), 3 volunteer staff, 7 readers awaiting their turn to read.

I had awakened suddenly at 2:35 a.m. “Want to go over?” I had asked Carol; amazingly she had come awake enough to reply rationally (she’s a very sound sleeper); “No, I don’t need to go,” she had said. “Guess I don’t either,” I had said. But I couldn’t get back to sleep, light sleeper that I am, and over I came.

Two of the sleeping spectators have come awake. I assume that these eight are the ones who, this year, are staying for the whole marathon reading of Moby-Dick. The young woman Carol spoke with last night is one of them, now attired in pajamas and bathrobe. Two more spectators have come awake. Less formality at this hour: the spectators who are awake whisper among themselves now and then.

A new reader, a good one, who manages to make chapter 79 lively. In spite of his good reading I’m definitely sleepy. Plus I think the snoring behind me is having a soporific effect.

Chapter 80 describes the whale’s vertebrae, and I look up at the skeletons hanging from the ceiling above me. I find Melville’s descriptions of whale vertebrae to be fanciful.

One of the spectators is asked by a volunteer to read (presumably a reader has slept through his or her alarm). He reads with real passion of the chase and the harrassment of the great old Sperm Whale in chapter 81; and when he’s done I head home to return to bed.

Moby-Dick marathon

New Bedford Whaling Museum

6:10 p.m. We’re a small group listening to the Moby-Dick marathon, sitting in the Jacobs Family gallery underneath the two huge whale skeletons hanging from the ceiling far above: 1 person reading, 11 spectators (the spectators are seated separately from the readers), 8 readers waiting to read or who have recently read, and 5 support volunteers. People are coming and going; there’s only so much Moby-Dick most people can listen to at once; and it is dinner time; and we’re hearing chapter 32 with its lists of descriptions of various kinds of whales, which, while wryly written and actually quite humorous, is probably best in small doses. “This whole book is but a draught – nay, but the draught of a draught.” –but the reader mispronounces it, “This whole book’s a drought, nay but the drought of a drought.”

***

The next reader begins chapter 33. Beside me, Carol is following along, reading our somewhat worn trade paperback reproduction of the beautiful Arion press book with its wonderful wood-engraved illustrations of whales and whale-related objects by Barry Moser. On the other side of her, Sailboat Chris is following along in his old battered paperback edition.

To my right, a woman follows along with her copy of Moby-Dick; a man has just left clutching his Moby-Dick a little as if it was a precious object. This is an event for book geeks, for people who want to sit in a room with other people who love to read, all reading along as someone reads a favorite book. Moby-Dick is a kind of holy book, at least here in New Bedford, not far from the docks where Herman Melville shipped out on this day aboard a whaling ship and began to gather the impressions that led, by a route as circuitous as the ones reported taken by some ships around the treacherous Cape Horn, to that grand book, neither novel nor “creative non-fiction” but just a book, known as Moby-Dick, or the Whale.

In the front rows sit some people I would judge to be of college age.

Each year, so we are told, some score or two dozen people stay for the entire marathon.

Another chapter ends; another new reader. This reader reads too quickly; he stumbles now and then too. He is not bad, but he is an example of the general state of public speaking in our culture. We do not value public speaking, and we do not know what good public speaking is, not much any more; so I expect nothing better here than reading that sounds like our average conversations: rushed, poorly articulated. A book like this is not our average conversation; its rhythms are more complex, its melodies longer and subtler, its range, both dynamic and emotional, greater, its intellect deeper, its spirit larger; it requires an ear attuned to its music, and more importantly a more practiced tongue to speak it. We in our culture don’t like to hear that we don’t know how to speak, but there it is: just listen, and you’ll hear it to be so.

But maybe this reader was just nervous, for as he comes to the end of his chapter, he warms to the task.

***

Carol just went and got us some grog, served at “4 bells in the dog watch.” More people have started to come in. Maybe the grog has drawn them, or maybe people have just had time to eat dinner.

***

My cell phone just vibrated (I was supposed to have turned it off but I’m in the midst of planning a memorial service for Thursday and was waiting to hear from the organist). I ran out of the building into wind and light sleet to answer it. It was my sister Jean, the college writing professor.

“Hello?”

“Danny?” she said (she is the only person in the world I allow to call me “Danny”). “Is that you?”

“Yes,” I said, still fumbling with the phone.

“It didn’t sound like you,” she said.

“I was in the Moby-Dick marathon,” I said. “I had to run out to answer the phone, I couldn’t answer it in there.”

“Go back in!” she said. “I’ll call you later.” As a college writing professor, she understands how a Moby-Dick marathon could be a big event for someone.

“It’s kind of boring,” I said, not untruthfully.

“Go back in, I’ll call you later,” she said firmly. Jean’s new book, Rose City, is subtitled “A Memoir of Work”; and after all, isn’t that what Moby-Dick is?

***

By now, 6:40 p.m., there are 16 spectators, 1 man reading, 23 readers waiting to read (along with some family members), six volunteers, and some more people milling about up the stairs near the Whaling Museum bookstore.

It’s a funny book; the readers get constant chuckles.

People coming and going all the time now; perhaps they’re done with dinner?

A new reader; she is quite good, slow, clear, projects her voice. One woman knitting. One young (college?) couple reading from the same copy of Moby-Dick. One boy reading along in his copy, over in the readers’ section. Sailboat Chris has the book open but he is looking at the reader not the book. Carol has stopped reading and is just listening.

To hear all these diverse voices reading Moby-Dick — you can hear the book speak in its own voice beyond the individual embodied voices.

***

Chapter 36. 7:05 p.m. Two readers: one man dressed in a conventional suit and tie; one man dressed in black 19th C. coat with harpoon and silk top hat; this latter reading Ahab’s words; and, thank God, he has a Massachusetts accent instead of the college-educated standard English of the other readers: jaw becomes jawr, sharp is shap, starboard is properly pronounced. Thank God.

“Steward! go draw the great measure of grog.”

Not only a Massachusetts accent, honestly come by it sounds like and not just put on as an act, but the best reader we’ve yet heard; not an actor but someone who reads with expression and meaning, and no stumbling over the Quaker archaicisms of thee and thou and ye.

***

A ten year old boy is reading. He reads pretty well, but the man with him (his father?) should move the microphone down more to his level.

***

7:40 p.m. Chapter 40, “Midnight, Forecastle.” A chapter written as a play, and so read in this Moby-Dick marathon. We have moved into the auditorium of the Whaling Museum. A dozen people stand on the small stage, and do a reader’s-theatre version of the chapter. The characters speak of light and dark, black and white, and race and racism is present in their words; appropriately, the readers are an interraccial group.

***

8:00 p.m. We’re waiting for the reading to begin again after chapter 40. Carol chats with a young woman sitting behind us. She is mixing up something, and Carol asks what it is. “Maté,” replies the young woman, something to keep her awake. She and her friend will stay for the entire marathon. Why do they do it? “We just like Moby-Dick,” she says, grinning. She and her friend have pillows and comforters in the little niche under the stairs.

19 spectators, 1 reader, 23 readers waiting (and families), 3 volunteers; perhaps two dozen people wandering up the stairs and in the passage by the bookstore, in the bookstore itself, in the rest rooms, the back room where the chowder is, the side room with the soda machines.

8:20 p.m. I decide I have to go get some work done, and whisper goodbye to Carol and Sailboat Chris. I see Cora out in the courtyard of the Whaling Museum having a quick cigarette; she always reads at two in the morning, she says, and tells me that since I live right across the street, I should come over and hear her read. I ask her about the people who stay for the whole thing. “Oh yeah,” she says, “they come from all over. Six people came down from Nova Scotia last year, they borrowed their parents’ car and just drove down.”

(Now there’s an idea for Jean’s college writing class: a Moby-Dick field-trip — drive to New Bedford next year on January 33, and stay for the whole marathon.)

Island

In the late afternoon, I drove down to the hurricane barrier for a walk. A damp chilling breeze blew down the Achushnet River, and I walked along the outer side of the barrier to stay out of the wind. Out of the wind, the day was pleasant even if it was gray. The Martha’s Vineyard ferry went out through the barrier, scattering ducks and gulls as it picked up speed once in the outer harbor.

On the walk back, I walked down on the windward side of the hurricane barrier. The tide was quite low, low enough that you could walk out to little Palmer Island. As I got onto the island, over a hundred Brant took off together and flew low over the water up the harbor. Ducks were scattered everywhere over the water; a couple of Long-tailed Ducks bobbed in the water up near the Palmer Island lighthouse. The interior of the north end of the island was covered with trash; there was not a square foot that wasn’t covered with trash: a computer monitor without any glass, a square plastic bin, a chunk of foam padding, a worn two-by-four with rusty nails, styrofoam cups, plastic bottles, trash that can’t be identified. In the junipers near the lighthouse, half a dozen Yellow-rumped Warblers flew about cheerfully eating juniper berries. Invasive bittersweet and phragmites, dominated the vegetation of the upper end of the island, along with poison sumac; brambles and thorns grew here and there; a small remnant of salt hay grass clung to the east side of the island.

I scrambled off the island before the tide could cover over the mud and sand that connects it to the hurricane barrier; passed a dead horseshoe crab, stepped on a squishy bit of yellow foam, curnched over broken shells and bits of broken glass. I was cold, and hurrying back to the car, but something made me pause and look at one waterbird through the binoculars: a Barrow’s Goldeneye, close enough to see every detail; an uncommon duck that I just didn’t expect to see in the heart of the city.

Winter vista

Walked across to Fairhaven this afternoon. High thin clouds had already covered the sky; the harbor and the sky were both gray. I was hoping to see sea ducks on the harbor, but aside from a few Buffleheads I saw few waterbirds. On the way back from Fairhaven, I stopped at the north end of Pope’s Island, stood for a while on the expanse of asphalt parking lot between Fairhaven Hardware and Dunkin Donuts. Through the binoculars I could see a raft of sea ducks far up in the harbor, black-and-white specks bobbing in the water almost to Interstate 195. I moved the binoculars to the old brick Fairhaven Mills building, nearly a hundred years old. Home Depot wants to bulldoze it and erect another big-box retail store that will last maybe twenty-five years before it has to be demolished. Carol and I snuck up to the top floor of the mill one afternoon last month, imagining what it would be like to have an office, or a store, or an apartment in that big, vast space; the tall windows with their views of the Acushnet River and the harbor, the skylights giving the space an open roomy feeling. The New Bedford City Council quickly voted to give Home Depot the permit to destroy; they have witnessed how the mallification of North Dartmouth sucked the life out of downtown New Bedford, and they must have thought, if we’re going to suck the life out of the downtown at least we can keep the tax dollars in the city. I moved the binoculars down the the wetlands sandwiched between the interstate and the harbor. With the binoculars, I could see that Phragmites, or Common Reeds, dominated the wetlands; a non-native species that offers little to the rest of the ecosystem while pushing out native flora and fauna; thus degrading the overall ecosystem. The dull tan stand of reeds offered little contrast to the dreary gray waters of the harbor. On late December days like this it’s hard to feel much hope. No leaves on the trees to soften the cityscape; no falling snow to gently cover the worst of the city’s ugliness; just dreary gray sky, dreary gray water, no sea ducks to watch diving, the only people in sight stay mostly hidden inside their cars, the only sound the rush of traffic on U.S. Route 6 behind me. Whatever hopelessness I feel is probably just a cold coming on, or a reaction to the short, dark days. These short days wear on you, we have a long way to go before spring comes, but at least by this time of year the days can only get longer. Then five Common Mergansers swam out of their hiding place among the docks of the deserted marina to my left, swimming away from me, warily looking back to see what I would do; the dull reddish heads of the females appearing bright against the grayness of the day. When they got a little farther out, they began to dive, staying under for long periods of time as they hunted for food, or perhaps dived just for the sheer joy of it. I stood watching them for a while until the damp cold sunk in. I walked briskly towards home. By the time I got there, I was warm and far more cheerful.

Merry New Bedford Christmas…

After church today, Carol said we had to go down to the hurricane barrier to look at the harbor. We got down there, and walked to the end of the hurricane barrier and back before the clouds moved in.

The whole fishing fleet is in for the holiday, and through the binoculars we could see them lined up three and four deep along the docks on the Fairhaven side and the New Bedford side of the harbor. The inner harbor was sheltered from the light southerly breeze, and was almost dead flat in places. No boat traffic at all; we saw a seal lolling on the surface right in the middle of the main shipping channel. That was the highlight of our walk for Carol.

Needless to say, I was most excited by the many birds that were out. Carol was very tolerant as I kept stopping to look through the binoculars: “Look!” I’d say, stopping yet again. “Horned Grebes! And a Common Loon just dove under the surface!” There were lots of Buffleheads, and Black Ducks, Scaup, Goldeneye, Long-tailed Ducks, a Mallard or two, Common Mergansers. On the way back, I got a good close look at six Brant, the closest I’ve ever gotten to these small geese. That, of course, was the highlight of our walk for me.

We’ve never seen the harbor so quiet. A delightful moment on this Christmas day. And Merry Christmas to you, wherever you are!